When I tell people I’m going on another trip to Dubai, I know I’m going to be met with a response along the lines of: ‘I have no desire to go there’.
(I wasn’t asking for your opinion, but okay).
It’s followed up with comments that Dubai has no culture, is too materialistic, and is full of influencers and/or Love Island rejects. I’ve heard on more than one occasion how it’s the world’s most overrated holiday destination.
These comments are particularly irritating when someone confidently claims all of the above, without ever having actually set foot in the city.
Are you not embarrassed?
I was still at primary school when I first visited Dubai, after my extended family moved out there.
Back then, no one had ever heard of it. I remember ‘the adults’ heading off on a boat trip to see The Palm being constructed – the man made island that is now arguably the boujee-est part of Dubai.
Now, the city has become famed for its brunches and beach clubs – and while they’re right up my alley, there’s so much more to Dubai than what you see on Instagram.
The natural beauty is stunning. Yes, really. From the mountainous Hatta to the deserts that surround the city, you’ll be surprised by how beautiful sand can be.
And, I hate to burst your bubble, but with more than 200 nationalities living and working together, there’s a kaleidoscope of culture – you just have to know where to find it.
So, the next time someone tells you’re they’re heading off to Dubai, don’t judge. You’re the one missing out.
From delicious food and desert adventure, to water sports and local produce, here are four reason why you should visit.
Food glorious food
Much like London, Dubai can offer you restaurants that cater to any appetite and cuisine. There’s French fayre at Couqley, Japanese at Zuma and Carnival by Trèsind, which offers a seasonal Indian menu.
If you want to get under the shiny surface though, I recommend heading out to Old Dubai. To get your bearings, book yourself onto a tour with Frying Pan Adventures.
We went on the Middle Eastern Food Pilgrimage, with our knowledgeable guide, Farida, who actually runs the company with her sister, Avra, who are both originally from India but grew up in Dubai. You might have even spotted Avra on the Dubai episode of Netflix’s Somebody Feed Phil.
It’s clear that Farida not only loves food, but the neighbourhood, Al Rigga, in the district of Deira, that she’s showing us around. One of the oldest areas in the city, at one point, she even points out her own apartment block. This is a different Dubai to the one you’ll see on The Palm. It’s full of people, noise – and hardly any tourists.
Arrive at the tour with an empty stomach and you will not be disappointed. We ate some of the best shawarma I’ve ever tasted from a curb-side hole in the wall, and the most delicious chickpea falafel at a family-run restaurant.
We also sat down at an Iraqi eatery to try their national dish, Masgouf, freshwater carp that’s been smoked on a wood fire.
As we tucked into the delicious fish, Farida explained how Masgouf is so much more than just a meal to the people of Iraq -but a dish that always tastes like home, wherever they may be.
While Farida finished the tour at Samadi Sweets – a favourite from her childhood serving up baklava and gahwa (a strong Arabic coffee that’s an acquired taste…), it’s kunafa that will always have my heart. We sampled the treat, made with spun pastry, sugar syrup and cheese (don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it) at Palestinian-Jordanian restaurant Qwaider Al Nabulsi Sweets.
At 435 Dhs (around £90) for a 3.5 hours tour and a huge amount of food, the price tag is more than worth it.
Elsewhere in the city, for a truly authentic Dubai experience, grab a table at Arabian Tea House, an authentic Emirati restaurant that’s been serving locals since 1997.
The original branch, in Al Fahidi, is like stepping back in time. Sit in the shade and enjoy the traditional seafood dishes – particularly the Machboos Robyan (prawns with spiced rice).
And, for one of the best meals I ate in Dubai, head to Three By Eva. This Lebanese restaurant in Jumeriah was full of locals (always a good sign), catching up over a Sunday brunch.
The restaurant was founded by Jordanian TV personality Eva Halasa, along with her daughters Emily and Lilian, with an aim to cook and share their favourite Arabic food.
They converted a Jumeirah villa into their eatery, creating a chic yet relaxed space.
I’d been told to order the feta creme brûlée and it would be remiss of me not to pass on this wisdom – you will not regret it.
Every time I go to Dubai I’m on quest to find the best houmous (the stuff you buy in Sainsbury’s is so not it) and the bowl I had here has to be up there. The vine leaves and fattoush are also a must.
At one with nature
You’ve probably already heard of the infamous dune bashing tours beloved by tourists that flock to Dubai.
If you’ve never hopped in a jeep and clung on for dear life as your crash, skid and yes, bash, your way through the desert, it’s quite the experience.
However, this comes with a caveat. Dune bashing is the leading cause of ‘desertification’ – environmental degradation, causing vegetation and wildlife to be lost.
That’s where Platinum Heritage’s tours come in.
Platinum Heritage aims to offer visitors a more sustainable way of seeing Dubai’s awe-inspiring sandscapes.
I was up at the absolute crack of dawn to join their Falconry and Nature Safari which started at an eye-watering 6am. However, a driver will pick you up from your hotel, which eased the pain a little.
We soon made our way to the desert and climbed into our vintage open-top Land Rover. Cruising along the near isolated desert roads as the sun comes up isn’t something I’ll forget in a hurry.
Next up, we arrived at our little desert camp where we learnt all about (and I mean all about) various birds of prey, in particular the falcon, the national bird of the UAE.
Next up, there’s a camel ride (our guides assured us that the wellness and treatment of the camels was a top priority for the company), and a traditional Bedouin breakfast. Granted, I won’t be swapping fava beans for a bacon sarnie long term, but ful medames is pretty delicious.
Then, it’s back in the Land Rover for a conservation drive. A word of warning: your passionate guide will tell you, in great detail, about the flora and fauna around you. We saw oyrxes, gazelles and lizards. If that’s your thing, go for it, but this is by no means a whistle stop of the desert. If you’re into nature, the 595 Dhs price tag (around £125) will be worth it.
From the desert to the mountains, Hatta, around 130km of south-east of central Dubai, is a stunning town. Once known for its historic fort it’s now a favourite for those who are after some adventure.
You can go mountain biking or, my personal favourite, hire a kayak and row along the stunning Hatta Dam. The rugged landscape is almost other-worldly.
Or, you could even book onto a horseback ride with Hatta Horses, for a hack on an Arabian horse. Rides start at 50 Dhs for 30 minutes.
Take to the water
I was pretty apprehensive about our booking with Hero Boats – I am not exactly a proficient sailor (and once had to get rescued after crashing a tiny motorboat – but that’s a story for another day).
Hero Boats offer you the chance to drive your own boat along Dubai’s iconic coastline. At first, it’s terrifying (they go pretty fast), but once you get the hang of it (it’s sort of like a jet ski, sort of like a mini RIB) your inner speed demon will come out.
The groups are small (there was just four of us, two per boat) and the guide was with us at all times, checking we were safe, following close behind – and was on hand to take those all important pictures too.
It’s not for the faint hearted – and the water can get surprisingly choppy – but if you fancy a bit of an adrenaline buzz, this is for you. We sailed in the shadow of the iconic Burj Al Arab, admiring one of the Royal Family’s many, many residences as their helicopter took off overhead.
If however, you prefer to lounge by the sea rather than battle the waves, Byron Bathers is a laid-back beach club on the shores of the Palm with views of the city.
The whole place has a really friendly, unpretentious vibe – possibly the opposite of what you’d imagine from a Dubai beach club.
There’s a pool if you’re not into having the sand between toes, or there’s waiter service to your sun lounger down by the beach.
The food is delicious too, with a focus on sustainable seafood. We ate a feast which included tuna tartare, chili and garlic prawns and tomato and feta salad.
As beach clubs go, it’s not too pricey either. Day passes start from 150 Dhs (around £35), which is fully redeemable on food and drink.
Local produce
If you think Dubai is all superficial tourist traps, heads to The Ripe Market – a community-led concept, first founded more than 10 years ago, with the aim of supporting home-grown businesses.
Every weekend from October to May, you can head down to the market at Academy Park in Jumeirah, and while away an afternoon picking up one-of-a-kind products, and eating some delicious food too.
In the summer months (when temperatures can exceed 43C), the market moves indoors, at various locations across the city.
It’s free to get into, and very family friendly, with shady areas to eat, a kids playground and activity areas.
I shopped ’til I dropped… or as much as my baggage allowance would let me, picking up bespoke accessories, from a hand-made tote bag from La Maison Angelique (my favourite stall at the market) to a pair of pyjamas and silk hair bobbles.
Lunch was bao buns at BaoFriend (apparently the best in the UAE), washed down with coconut water straight out of the coconut.
Traders come from all over the world: we spoke to the Slovakian co-founder of Camp’s Kitchen, a husband and wife duo who started selling small batch hot sauce in lockdown, and a family from Lebanon, who run Unpair Me, a business selling odd, but perfectly matched, socks.
The UAE’s largest mosque
Okay so, I’ll admit, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque isn’t in Dubai, it’s in Abu Dhabi, but at just over an hour’s drive away, you shouldn’t miss it.
Built between 1994 and 2007, the UAE’s largest mosque is big enough to accommodate over 40,100 worshippers, and is one of the few open to non-Muslim visitors.
The pristine white marble walls (it was made using 90,000 tonnes of the stuff) are decorated with floral designs, inlaid with semi-precious stones. Inside, you won’t miss the chandeliers – the largest of which weighs around 11 tonnes, and is made with Swarovski crystals and 40kg of 24-karat gold.
Visitors can enter, for free, except during prayer times. You will be expected to dress modestly – those not dressed appropriately will be asked to change into an abaya (for women) or kandoura (for men), which are handed out for free.
The verdict
If you want the glam Insta brunches and sun soaked beach clubs (and the city has plenty), Dubai has to be top of your list.
But that’s not all it has to offer. For me, Dubai is full of happy memories: it’s family reunions, building dams in the mountains, eating houmous (and more houmous), and jumping into the pool on Christmas Day.
The people who live and work here are passionate about the city they’ve chosen to call home – I’ve already booked my next trip.
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