La Maison Ani review: berets off to all involved, this one is a winner

Some extortionate prices aside, La Maison Ani has that casual sophistication that brasseries in France achieve effortlessly but is hard to come by in London.

And as for the food? If the deeply engrained memory of my French grandparents’ cooking is anything to go by – this is as authentically, and gloriously French as it gets.

The Slice’s Verdict: 8/10

AMBIENCE: ★★★

PRICE: £££££

QUALITY: ★★★★★

BOTTOM LINE: Toes the line with expert skill between the eccentric feel of a classic brasserie, with the elegance of a high-end restaurant. There’s something for everyone here at a wide range of prices, meaning it can, but doesn’t have to break the bank. Beautifully authentic food, a gorgeously designed space and a food-loving, je sais faire quality make this new opening an absolute winner.

The Vibe

Though a little less chaotic than your standard Parisian brasserie, La Maison Ani manages to retain all the classic charm you expect from this kind of restaurant. The space is simple; a mix of wood and brass decor, with golden light radiating from each table lamp as night-time hits, making this a calm, food-focused and classy place to eat. It’s quieter than you’d expect, even when packed. But this only adds to the relaxation and you’ll probably find yourself being gracefully serenaded through your meal by the soft jazz playing in the background.

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The Food and Drink

There is a bit of everything on this menu while still remaining classically French – but it’s the authenticity of the flavours that truly stand out here. The fresh, earthy tones of the lentilles vertes salad brought me straight back to my grandparents’ kitchen in rural France. The escargots, baked in just the right amount of garlic butter (a lot) were terrific and the tarte à l’oignon was a magnificent balance of caramelised onion, cheese and anchovies, topped over a gorgeously golden crust.

Mains are where La Maison Ani loses us a bit. Pizzas go for upwards of £20 and les plats principaux average around £50 per plate. This is Knightsbridge so colour us shocked, but fortunately there are enough tasty dishes across the menu at mid-high range which makes this a place to save up for, but if you don’t want it to – it won’t break the bank.

The Service

The staff are attentive, friendly and extremely knowledgeable. Our sommelier paired a tone-perfect Côtes du Rhône with our meal and an exquisite Donnafugata dessert wine to finish. Everything here is presented with beautiful elegance and skill, yet retaining that sense of a deep, passionate love for food and wine. Berets off to all involved, this one is a winner.