If you’re looking for a bit of winter sun, Italy’s Amalfi Coast makes for the perfect escape from Britain’s gloomy climes.
But, let’s face it; it’s also pretty pricey.
Positano is often said to be the jewel of the Sorrentine Peninsula; clinging precariously onto the cliff face, the coastal village is made up of colourful buildings in hues of terracotta and pink, boasting unspoiled views of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The picturesque location has long been a popular holiday resort, with Italians and local Neapolitans flocking to the seaside since the 18th century. It’s also a UNESCO heritage site – with good reason.
But there’s also no denying that since the birth of social media, the Insta-worthy backdrop has now become synonymous with influencers – more often than not donning wide-brimmed straw hats and Capri pants, and sipping on generously-sized Aperol spritzes.
So in vogue is the area that officials have made plans to reinstate an old military airfield located near the city of Amalfi to accommodate its many visitors – an estimated 5 million per year.
While the summer rush is over, the recent opening of Salerno Costa d’Amalfi airport for commercial flights will no doubt entice more people to the area, as it eradicates the need to fly into Naples, which is at least an hour and a half away by car.
Arguably, this will add strain to the small commune of Positano, which is already brimming with guests. It could potentially hike prices up further.
So, if you’re looking to visit the area but want to avoid crowds and selfie sticks galore, you might want to take a look at its lesser-known neighbour, Praiano.
Just as pretty, the subdued town offers a bit of calm amid the tourist storm. It’s full of locals, delicious eateries and has stunning nooks and coves to explore.
What’s more, it’s just a 20-minute car ride up the coast from Positano and is conveniently positioned for those wanting to visit other nearby towns, such as Amalfi and Maiori (where Harry Styles’ Golden music video was shot).
It also just feels more laid-back and authentic, especially during off-season; there are cute ceramic shops, small grocers selling fresh produce and sunsets to enjoy all year round.
Things to do in Praiano
Take a walk down to the beach
There are few better things in life than an evening stroll along the shoreline. And if you’re after some solitude and serenity, the little coves below the town of Praiano are ideal.
Soak in the sunset
Equally, thanks to the staggered height of all the buildings on the front, you can pretty much go anywhere along this stretch of the coast and get a fantastic view of the sunset.
Eat, pray, love – or just eat, eat, eat
It’ll come as no surprise that a spot in Italy has really good food, but what may catch you off guard is just how many options this quiet town has.
While it may be less busy than its coastal counterparts, there’s still plenty to do – and plenty of pasta to tuck into. Buon appetito!
Explore the rest of the Amalfi Coast
Praiano is in the perfect spot for those wishing to explore the whole stretch of the coast. It’s not far from Positano, and visitors can easily reach other popular destinations, such as Amalfi and Salerno.
If you don’t have a rental car or can’t get hold of a taxi, there are also regular buses.
Where to eat and drink in Praiano
Kasai
Serving up a variety of homemade pasta dishes and unbelievably fresh seafood, Kasai is a culinary hotspot that should be on everyone’s list.
Not only is the food and atmosphere impeccable, guests can enjoy panoramic views and soak in the sunset of an evening on their gorgeous terrace.
Miragalli
If you’re after a light bite, this small bar is a great pit stop. Try local wines, pick on some cured meats and cheeses – or simply get a cannoli (or three) to go.
Bar del Sole
While on the outside this simple cafe might not appear to be much, looks can be deceiving. And to be honest, you’re not going to go there for the furnishings or fine china.
You are, however, going to rub shoulders with the locals, enjoying their morning espresso with their neighbours and catching up on the latest news. Even if you can’t speak Italian, you’ll definitely appreciate the buzz around you.
It’s also smack bang in the middle of the village and overlooks the crystalline waters of the region. What’s not to like?
Weather in Praiano
Although the hottest month is August (with the mercury sitting at an average 27°C) it’s still balmy in winter – and a whole lot warmer than here in the UK.
December sees average highs of 15°C, but lows are far from freezing at 12°C. January and February are about the same temperature-wise, then things begin to heat up by spring.
As well as avoiding hordes of tourists, many people prefer the more comfortable weather Praiano enjoys outside of the summer season.
How to get to Praiano
As mentioned, the nearest airport is the newly-opened Salerno Costa d’Amalfi Airport. Flights from London Gatwick are extremely reasonable at this time of year, with return fares available on Skyscanner in December from as little as £63.
From Salerno, the car ride takes about 1 hour 30 minutes, depending on the traffic. It’s advisable to book a private taxi in advance of your stay, as those in the city tend to be more expensive and by booking ahead of time, you can negotiate a fixed fee.
You may also wish to speak to your hotel or Airbnb host, as they can often assist with the booking.
This article was first published on July 13, 2024.
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